7 Places to Get an Authentic Taste of the Bahamas

Bahamian Cookin' Restaurant & Bar

Find real Bahamian food at this longtime local favorite run by three generations of indomitable women (grandmother Mena, daughter Cookie, and granddaughters Ginger and Cinnamon). On jaunty painted plates, Bahamian Cookin' serves up classic island cuisine, including cracked conch fried to a golden crisp, creamy squares of mac and cheese, and perfectly moist steamed chicken served over spicy peas and rice. (Here in the Bahamas, pigeon peas are used for the ubiquitous cheap and filling dish that's seasoned with tomatoes, onions, salted pork, and a hit of hot goat pepper.) Everything is homey and casual at this very off-the-beaten-path spot, where a kindly grandmother just may implore you to finish your plate (don't worry, you will).

Van Breugel's

Marrying European-bistro cuisine with fresh Caribbean flavors, this Charlotte Street spot is quirky good fun. Local businessmen, happy-hour seekers, and savvy tourists sidle up to the bar and verandah for Chef Freddy Van Breugel's fare. His best dish (in my opinion) and most famous (in everyone's everywhere) is a mouth-searing spicy conch chowder, rich with coconut milk and Thai curry. (Mop up the soup with an extra baguette and sip a Kalik, the local beer, to kill the sweet pain.) Other dishes include Thai-style beef, Indian prawns, bouillabaisse for two, and Wiener schnitzel—trust me, it all makes sense at this hip boîte set in a historical Bahamian house.

Graycliff Hotel and Restaurant

Hotels in the Bahamas aren't all mega-resorts and multinational chains. Practically hidden in downtown Nassau is the Graycliff Hotel and its uber-romantic restaurant. Rumored to be the spot where Jay-Z popped the question to Beyoncé, the hotel—and its beautifully tiled Mediterranean swimming pool—is the island's most elegant escape from the maddening crowds. But you don't need to stay at the Graycliff to enjoy the restaurant's gourmet cuisine: Inside the colonial manse, everyone can enjoy classical European dishes made with Bahamian ingredients and local seafood. Follow dinner with a trip to the on-site chocolatier or cigar roller, or ask for a tour of 250,000-bottle wine cellar (there's a 1727 Apostelwein priced at $200K down there, if you're feeling spendy).

In typical island style with an upscale twist, dinners at the Graycliff open with the hotel's signature Champagne cocktail. Want to recreate it at home? Here's the secret:

Graycliff Champagne Cocktail

2 ounces apple brandy, such as Calvados
½ ounce orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
½ ounce black raspberry liqueur, such as Chambord
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons simple syrup
3 tablespoons chopped apple
2 dashes Angostura bitters
2 (750 mL) bottles dry Champagne
8 maraschino cherries, for garnish
8 orange wedges, for garnish
8 lime twists, for garnish

1. In a glass measuring cup, combine brandy, orange liqueur, black raspberry liqueur, simple syrup, apple, and bitters. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
2. Strain brandy mixture, discarding solids. Pour 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon strained liquid into each of eight champagne flutes. Top with champagne. Garnish each glass with a cherry, an orange wedge, and a lime twist. Serve immediately.

Pure Caribbean Specialty Store

In this tourist-friendly town, there are a million and five souvenir shops hawking hot sauces and jars of jam, but Nassau's Pure Caribbean Specialty Store is a worthy stop among the masses. Find locally picked bush teas like breadfruit, soursop, and sugar apple, all known for their medicinal qualities as much as for their soothing flavors. (They make for great gifts—or simply great cups of tea back at the hotel or cruise ship.) Other gourmet options on offer include hand-blended spices and pepper sauces made by local artisans—no Frank's RedHot here.

Arawak Cay Fish Fry

Somewhere between a church bazaar and a street-food festival, this setup is my pick for experiencing authentic Bahamian food and drinks. On a spit of land facing the sea, in brightly painted shacks lined up shoulder-to-shoulder, chefs sling conch salad, fried snapper, and stick-to-your-ribs sides. Every shack has its specialties, but to many insiders, Twin Brothers is the place to go. Take a seat on the outdoor patio under a thatched umbrella that shades you from the sun. Order the raw conch salad, studded with hot peppers, onions, and tomato. Wash it down with a Sky Juice (a strong, opaque cocktail of gin, coconut water, and condensed milk—did we mention that it's strong?). Chat with locals, play dominoes, or simply kick back and have another round.

John Watling's

Found not too far afield from downtown Nassau in a historical 1789 estate, this distillery gets you up close and personal with the traditional process of making Bahamian rum. From fermentation to packaging, the production process is on view for distillery guests—and it's all within walking distance of the cruise port. An entertaining (and free) tour takes you behind the scenes, from the beautiful plantation home's foyer to the small bottling plant and beyond. Best of all, visitors can sample several of John Watling's famous small-batch rums during and after the tour at the on-site Red Turtle Tavern. (Hint: The oaky amber rum makes for a perfect planter's punch.)

Tortuga Rum Cake

You'll find the parchment-yellow hexagonal boxes all over the Bahamas—at the airport, souvenir shops, hotel lobbies—but the best place to sample the original is at the Tortuga Rum Cake shop on Frederick Street. Sweet with aged rum and subtly spiced, these boozy little cakes make yummy, edible mementos (or poolside desserts). I prefer the original version topped with a wee mountain of walnuts, but a sampler pack with coconut, key lime, chocolate, banana, or pineapple will do, too. Serve alongside strong coffee and let the taste transport you back to Nassau.

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